On natural wineThe fairs where these wines surface

Natural wine is less a style than an agreement among growers. The makers behind it tend to belong to small associations of natural winemakers, held together by a single principle: nothing sprayed in the vineyard, nothing added in the cellar, and a wine that should taste of the ground it grew in.

The rarest of these are made in lots of a few hundred bottles and never reach a shop shelf. They surface instead at the natural-wine fairs — events like London’s RAW WINE or Tbilisi’s New Wine Festival, where a single vintage is opened for one weekend before it is gone. Much of the Georgian wine in Batumi on this list was found exactly there.

It is also why the list refuses to sit still: a grape that defined the spring can be gone by autumn, replaced by the next small lot worth the journey. The wine in Batumi worth seeking has always moved this way, long before the supermarket aisle.